Tai-Pan

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Extensive Chinese, Thai, and pan-Asian specialties lure diners along with an expert dim sum.. The Verdict
Extensive Chinese, Thai, and pan-Asian specialties lure diners along with an expert dim sum.

The Scene
When Steve Chan opened this restaurant in 1991, he took decorating inspiration from Zen temples and remembered patterns from his childhood in Shanghai. The building's exterior may be an anomaly on busy Route 9, but inside you'll find a large, airy space with many rooms, all of them light and cheerfully decorated.

The Food
The emphasis is on Chinese and Thai cuisine, although many Asian flavors are represented. Chinese classics like chow mein are served alongside Thai green curries on this extensive menu. Chef Ming Chan has the art of dim sum cooking down to a science after studying in Hong Kong; his egg rolls, for example, are densely packed with an intense flavor to the filling.

Dish to Die For
Come for the area's best dim sum on weekends, a brunch bargain. —B. A. Nilsson

Originally published June 2000